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‘1930’: THE SECRET MILAN BAR THAT KEEPS MAKING GLOBAL HISTORY 1930, HONG KONG From Features Desk ‘1930’, the secret private club in Milan, has once again confirmed its place among the world’s mixology elite, achieving the 43rd position in the prestigious ‘World’s 50 Best Bars’ ranking for the seventh consecutive year.This recognition celebrates the excellence, consistency, and unique identity of a venue that, while preserving its intimate and discreet character, continues to proudly represent both Milan and Italy on the international stage.Beyond its exclusivity, ‘1930’ captures the very essence of Milan’s creative soul, refined yet quietly rebellious. Each visit feels like stepping into a piece of living history where time seems to slow reflecting a decade of dedication to the craft. “This year marked an important milestone in the history of ‘1930’. After 12 years at its original address, the bar found a new home, beginning a challenging evolution that has preserved the soul and refined atmosphere of the original venue, while adding new spaces and details that further enhance its identity and guest experience. “We are deeply grateful for this recognition,” says bar manager Benjamin Cavagna, “I dedicate this result to our extraordinary team that works every day with passion and dedication to our loyal guests, who continue to support us, and to the city of Milan, which inspires and embraces us. It is an honour to represent the Italian mixology scene on such a prestigious international stage, surrounded by colleagues from all over the world.” Aperitivo, Elevated to Art ‘1930’ welcomes its guests starting with ‘aperitivo’, with evocative cocktails, refined experimentation, and creative presentations, while the venue remains a point of reference for those seeking experiences beyond the ordinary. Every detail, from service to music selection, contributes to creating an unforgettable experience. As a result of continuous research and experimentation, ‘1930’ has also introduced À La Carte, a menu that merges mixology with haute cuisine. Structured like a restaurant menu: from appetisers to desserts, along with a section of reimagined classics, this journey offers a sensory experience where drinking becomes a true culinary act, highlighting techniques, ingredients, and inspirations drawn from both Italian and global gastronomic traditions.Access to the venue remains exclusive to the 193 private club members who can book a table, while others may visit ‘Mag La Pusterla’, a renowned cocktail bar operating as a standalone venue that also serves as the gateway to ‘1930’.Now celebrating its seventh year, ‘1930’ strengthens its position among the world’s most revered bars. This achievement is a celebration of consistency and evolution of a space that continues to innovate while honouring its roots. ‘1930’ offers more than a cocktail – A journey, one that lingers long after the final sip.

THE HIDDEN BAR PUTTING MAINLAND CHINA ON THE GLOBAL COCKTAIL MAP HOPE & SESAME, GUANGZHOU From Features Desk Founded in 2016, Hope & Sesame has quietly been redefining cocktail culture in southern China. Located in a traditional Cantonese café in the Dongshankou neighbourhood of Guangzhou, the bar’s unassuming entrance belies what lies within: a temple of mixology, innovation and Asian hospitality. From the moment one steps through the discreet refrigerator-door speakeasy style facade, the surroundings speak of craftsmanship, subtle luxury and a focus on flavour that transcends the ordinary. Technique Meets Tradition What sets Hope & Sesame apart is its fearless blending of modern technique with regional ingredients and warm hospitality. Under the leadership of co-founders Andrew Ho and BastienCiocca, the bar has become a testing ground for cocktails that combine rotary distillation, sous-vide infusions, centrifugal clarification, and other advanced methods, while still delivering drinks that feel inviting instead of overly avant-garde. Local flavour is never an afterthought; expect creative riffs on Chinese ingredients like roasted sweet potato, clarified coconut milk, pandan, and gochujang, woven into a drink menu that evolves every few months. Key to the experience is that the technique supports flavour rather than overshadowing it.The ambience also plays a powerful role in the bar’s character. With exposed brick, vintage timber panelling, gentle lighting and jazz-inflected nights, Hope & Sesame invites you to linger, to explore rather than rush. There is a comfortable sophistication; old-world bones beneath modern finesse. Between the cocktails and the atmosphere, it has established a loyal following in China and gradually attracted global attention. Recognition on the World Stage Which brings us to its recent landmark achievement: Hope & Sesame has been ranked No. 29 on The World’s 50 Best Bars 2025 list. This milestone marks the bar’s arrival on the global stage, not just as a regional favourite but as a serious contender among the best bars in the world. The ranking is all the more significant because it recognises a mainland-China cocktail bar in a list historically dominated by Western venues and major Asian hubs like Hong Kong or Tokyo. In parallel, the bar also ranks No. 7 on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2025 list, which named it ‘The Best Bar in Mainland China’. For customers and cocktail enthusiasts, this means visiting Hope & Sesame is more than just ordering a drink; it’s stepping into a bar at the cutting-edge of the craft. One will find menus that shift thematically, the latest being ‘To the Flavours’, a focus on small-batch distillations, local sourcing and a willingness to surprise. But all of this is delivered with warmth and accessibility. The team values hospitality highly: staff are knowledgeable, attentive and ground the experience in genuine connection rather than gimmick. Beacon for Chinese Cocktail Culture Looking ahead, the bar’s inclusion on the global list raises interesting questions about Guangzhou’s growing role in the world of cocktails and the evolution of Chinese F&B culture. Hope & Sesame has become a flag-bearer for the region, showing that excellence in mixology is not confined to long-established global cities. With its global recognition, the bar continues to inspire younger talent, deepen local ingredient exploration, and expand the notion of what a world-class cocktail bar can be in China.In the end, it is a story about the craft and the way it brings together tradition and innovation into a glass. With its global recognition, Hope & Sesame continues to open new doors, not just for Guangzhou, but for the future of Chinese cocktail culture.

THE CAMBRIDGE: BRITISH HEART, FRENCH SPIRIT THE CAMBRIDGE PUBLIC HOUSE, PARIS From Features Desk ‘The Cambridge’ is an award-winning neighbourhood bar which opened its doors in the heart of the Marais, Paris, in 2019. Founded by industry duo Hyacinthe Lescoët and Hugo Gallou, the bar takes its inspiration from a classic British pub, which is blended seamlessly with elements of a chic Parisian cocktail bar, to deliver a relaxed and unique drinking experience. Its warm, unpretentious atmosphere invites both locals and travellers to slow down and savour each pour. Every detail from the interiors to the curated soundtrack reflects a love for timeless hospitality. ‘The Cambridge’ offers a comfortable and familiar setting that emulates the feeling of a classic British pub with a chic Parisian twist. Floor-to-ceiling glass windows at the front of the venue are opened fully in summertime, allowing guests to enjoy classic European cafe culture in the heart of the Marais. After dark, ‘The Cambridge’ shifts into a vibrant late-night hotspot, with cocktails flowing all night long, making it one of the city’s most loved destination cocktail bars for locals, internationals, and cocktail enthusiasts. Conscious Cocktails, Crafted Carefully The Cambridge’s cocktail menu evolves throughout the year and uses the best quality ingredients currently available. Popular staples and signature drinks that remain on the menu are updated seasonally and include playful takes on British classics as well as combinations of well-known cocktails. These include the ‘Pimms 4.0’, now in its fourth iteration, for which the team combines Pimms with Sirene Americano, Gin, Verjus, Clarified Lemon, and Orange Wine to create a playful take on the British classic; as well as the Gimlet Julep, which takes the best of two classic cocktails resulting in a harmonious, elegant drink; and the smokey ‘Cigarette After Sex’ which features Agua de Jamaica, Sloe Gin, and Del Maguey Vida Mezcal. Every week, the team also creates a special ‘Cocktail of the Week’, an experimental cocktail created using leftover produce. Alongside its cocktail offering, ‘The Cambridge’ serves a simple food menu inspired by British pub classics, all made in-house by the team using French ingredients; the sausage and vegetarian rolls are a particular favourite. All the food is designed to be the perfect accompaniment to the beverage menu.Paris’s Toast to Sustainability Since opening, ‘The Cambridge’ founders, along with their small, tight-knit team, have continually strived to improve sustainability not only within the bar but amongst the wider hospitality industry. Following the launch of its ‘Community Plan’ in 2023, the bar went on to become the first in the world to achieve ‘B Corp’ status this summer.‘The Cambridge’ and its team have also gone on to win many industry accolades and awards, including, most recently, being named No.20 and achieving the ‘Ketel One Sustainable Bar Award’ at ‘The World’s 50 Best Bars 2025’.It stands as a timeless reminder that true hospitality is not just about what’s in the glass, but the heart behind. With its blend of British charm, Parisian flair, and a deep-rooted commitment to sustainability, ‘The Cambridge’ has carved out a singular identity in the global bar scene. As it continues to evolve, the bar remains a beacon for conscious hospitality, where every cocktail tells a story and every guest becomes part of a growing community that values craft, connection, and culture.

FIVE YEARS STRONG: HOW PROWINE MUMBAI 2025 BECAME INDIA’S GLOBAL BEVERAGE HUB Malay Kumar Rout The founder of WSCI (Wine & Spirits Club of India) If one seeks a masterclass in establishing a distinguished presence, the story of Messe Düsseldorf’s introduction of ProWine to India offers a compelling example. Now in its fifth successful edition, ProWine Mumbai has firmly established itself among India’s premier international exhibitions. The event consistently delivers seamless execution, thriving business opportunities, well deserved brand recognition, and meaningful engagement for attendees, underscoring its critical role in the country’s evolving alco-beverage landscape.This year’s edition, held at the Jio World Convention Centre on October 31 and November 1, elevated the standard for industry gatherings in the region by bringing together 213 exhibitors from 21 countries and over 5,400 trade professionals representing every link in the value chain. The atmosphere throughout the two-day event was marked by purposeful engagement as decision-makers, brand owners, and key opinion leaders convened not merely to celebrate diversity in wines and spirits but to forge the next chapter of India’s beverage story. “Through our satellite events not only in Mumbai, but also in Shanghai, Tokyo, São Paulo, Hong Kong and Singapore, we bring our international exhibitors directly to some of the world’s most dynamic growth markets and are committed to promoting business and networking in a high-quality B2B environment. All our locations benefit from efficient, professional organisation, yet retain their own identity and character. Throughout Asia, and especially in India, we are experiencing incredible momentum and a great desire for new experiences and innovation. India also proves that economic strength can go hand in hand with tolerance and warmth,” Frank Schindler, Director – ProWein, said. What was new this year? To complement its expanding scale, ProWine Mumbai 2025 introduced new features aligned with global trends, most notably “ProWine Zero”, a dedicated space for for the fast-growing zero-proof and low-alcohol category. With the alcohol-free sector projected to surpass $1.2 billion by year-end and growing at over 12 percent annually, the segment showcased premium alternatives tailored to health-conscious consumers. Its strong presence reflected rising demand in India, where over 40 percent of millennials and Gen Z actively seek low- or no-alcohol options, reinforcing ProWine’s commitment to innovation and inclusivity. Messe Düsseldorf also strengthened its digital engagement through ProWine Connect, an evolution of the ‘Fair Match’ platform introduced at ProWein Düsseldorf in 2018. Designed to support targeted networking, the tool enables exhibitors and buyers to review profiles, schedule meetings, and communicate in advance. Its successful adoption at ProWine Mumbai 2025 streamlined business interactions and enhanced preparedness, featuring Messe Düsseldorf’s focus on efficient, high-quality trade fair experiences. Creating waves & not just riding them The evolution of ProWine Mumbai corresponds with major shifts in India’s international trade environment. A defining development this year was the signing of the UK-India Comprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement (CETA) in July 2025, eliminating tariffs on 99 percent of Indian tariff lines and reducing duties on 90 percent of UK lines. This has significantly strengthened prospects for premium categories such as whisky, gin, and craft spirits. Its impact was visible at ProWine Mumbai 2025, where the UK Pavilion featured 19 producers benefiting from expanded market access under a deal projected to boost UK exports by nearly 60 percent, adding an estimated £15.7 ($20.7) billion by 2040.Similarly, Switzerland’s presence reflected the advantages of the India-Switzerland Trade and Economic Partnership Agreement (TEPA), effective October 2025. By lowering tariffs, simplifying customs procedures, and enhancing IP protection, TEPA is easing the entry of Swiss wines, spirits, and non-alcoholic beverages into India, reinforcing the country’s commitment to long-term market expansion.Emerging regions also benefited from strengthened bilateral cooperation. Moldova’s debut at ProWine Mumbai, supported by recent trade agreements and MoUs signed in 2024-25, highlighted growing export opportunities for niche producers seeking new markets. Together, these developments underscore ProWine Mumbai’s role as a strategic platform connecting global beverage producers with India’s rapidly expanding alco-bev economy The winner takes it home The ProWine Bartenders’ Competition at ProWine Mumbai 2025 was a high-impact platform displaying India’s finest bartending talent, judged on creativity, efficiency, flavour mastery, and hospitality under pressure. Deepika Shukla’s victory was a momentous achievement, highlighting gender equality with equal representation among finalists. Her prize includes a guest shift at Hanoi’s prestigious Haflington bar, a cash reward, and a seat at the WSET training course, highlighting the competition’s role in elevating professional standards and career trajectories. The ProWine & ProSpirits Challenge expanded the event’s competitive spirit with an inclusive, no-fee format that attracted a wide range of wine and spirit entries. Gold medallists represented regions from La Mancha and Veneto to Australia’s Barossa and India’s Nashik, alongside diverse spirits including whiskies, gins, liqueurs, soju, and non-alcoholic innovations. Blind tastings provided brands with valuable consumer insights, while medal endorsements boosted visibility and credibility, reinforcing ProWine Mumbai’s role in elevating industry standards. Discussions that steer the wheel The panel discussions at ProWine Mumbai 2025 brought together producers, distributors, restaurateurs, and brand ambassadors to examine key forces shaping India’s alco-bev landscape. Sessions such as ‘What is India Drinking?’ and ‘What’s Next in the Cocktail Revolution?’ unpacked shifting consumer preferences and emerging mixology trends. ‘What’s Right and Wrong About Wine Programmes in India?’ highlighted gaps in education and promotion. Panellists offered insights on premiumisation, the rise of low- and no-alcohol choices, and growing demand for sustainability.The discussions deepened understanding of market trajectories and regulatory considerations, reinforcing ProWine Mumbai’s role as a vital forum for industry collaboration and leadership. Mecca of Knowledge The masterclass lineup at ProWine Mumbai 2025 delivered a powerful blend of education and sensory exploration, drawing industry professionals and consumers alike. Day 1 featured sessions such as ‘Water is Not Just Water’, highlighting water’s impact on beverage quality, along with deep dives into single malt whisky, rum styles, and the terroirs of Australian and Californian wines. The evolution of Indian rum and tastings of Chile’s Gran Reserva added further depth.Day 2 built on this momentum with more intricate themes, including ‘Styling it Out:

CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR BREAKS WITH BORDEAUX: A CLIMATE-DRIVEN REVOLUTION Sangmitra winesutra Founder and CEO, Winesutra In a move that has sent ripples through the wine world, the Guinaudeaus family of Château Lafleur has announced a historic and unprecedented departure from the prestigious appellations of Pomerol and Bordeaux. Beginning with the 2025 vintage, their wines will be labelled ‘Vin de France’. This decision, while radical, is not a rejection of tradition. It is a courageous response to the existential threat of climate change. For over 150 years, Château Lafleur has been synonymous with excellence, terroir expression, and quiet innovation. However, in recent years, the accelerating pace of climate disruption has compelled the family to reassess its approach, from vineyard management to regulatory constraints. Their choice to step outside the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system is not a marketing stunt. Rather, it is a declaration of independence, driven by necessity and guided by conviction. A Vintage Forged in Fire The 2025 growing season was one of the most extreme in memory. Rainfall in March was down 73 percent, followed by months of drought and scorching temperatures. In the vineyard, fruit exposed to direct sunlight reached nearly 50°C. Vines faced severe water stress, and the risk of crop failure loomed large. Yet, through years of research and adaptation, the Lafleur team was prepared. They implemented a series of innovative techniques that defied convention but saved the vintage with reduced canopy height to limit transpiration, increased foliage density to shade fruit and preserve acidity, subterranean irrigation using sustainable water sources, and early-season interventions to mitigate stress before irreversible damage occurred. The result was grapes of exceptional quality, small berries with vibrant aromatics, balanced acidity, and moderate alcohol levels. A vintage not just rescued, but reimagined. Innovation Meets Regulation Despite their success, Lafleur’s adaptive methods remain incompatible with current AOC regulations. The AOC system, designed to protect tradition and terroir, has become a barrier to innovation. Lafleur’s experience reveals a painful irony as the very rules meant to safeguard quality now prevent winemakers from responding to the realities of climate change. The Guinaudeau family has proposed five key reforms to modernise viticulture in the face of environmental stress. These include lower planting densities tailored to soil water reserves, authorisation for mulching and full soil cover techniques to retain moisture, use of canopy shading to protect fruit from sunburn, significant canopy height reductions to reduce water loss, and flexible irrigation policies with sustainable sourcing and early-season deployment. These are not theoretical suggestions. They are proven strategies that are responsible for saving the 2025 vintage, but under current AOC rules, they remain prohibited. Vin de France: A New Chapter, Same Soul By choosing the ‘Vin de France’ label, Lafleur has gained the freedom to act swiftly and responsibly. However, this is not a break from tradition since it is a reaffirmation of it. The same distinctive terroir that has defined Lafleur since 1872, the same noble vine genetics cultivated with care and precision, and the same devoted family, guided by humility, curiosity, and conviction. The Guinaudeaus remain committed to their five authorised local grape varieties. They reject the idea of introducing foreign cultivars, believing that true adaptation lies not in abandoning identity, but in evolving within it. Their philosophy is clear: terroir is not static, it is a living dialogue between nature and culture, and in the face of climate change, that dialogue must evolve. A Vintage of Conviction The 2025 harvest looks promising. Early tastings suggest a vintage marked by nature, foresight, and resilience. This is a story of change, not of loss. Lafleur’s decision to leave the AOC system sends a message to the wine industry. It urges producers to reconsider how they define quality, authenticity, and tradition in a time of environmental disruption. Château Lafleur’s decision to change its label reflects a deeper shift in thinking. It is a clear signal that climate change is not a distant concern. It is already affecting how wine is made, and the impact is unfolding now. The Guinaudeaus have chosen courage over comfort and innovation over inertia. In doing so, they have opened a new chapter for Lafleur and for everyone who believes that great wine must evolve to survive. As the wine world watches closely, one thing remains clear. The 2025 vintage of Château Lafleur will be remembered for its quality and for the conviction behind it

THE UNSUNG INGREDIENT: HOW ICE SHAPES EVERY SIP Dushyant Tanwar Portfolio Advocate – North India Beam Suntory “Can I have a mojito without the ice.” – These words have haunted bartenders for years now. It took away all the skill that their mentors had slapped (look up slapping mint) into them and left the guest with a bubbly cool liquid with lime and mint floating in it like the gods had beaten them up and left them to drown. In a lineup of drinks it looked like a war trodden soldier, who without any grooming joined the parade.In this little piece, we will explore where ice came from into the world of drinks, its importance, how it evolved over the years while it made its way into drinks in various shapes and sizes. History of ice in drinks Ice in today’s time and date is a common ingredient in all bars and households but not too long ago it was an elusive treat, only for the wealthy. It was used to preserve food and chill drinks. It is such an important ingredient, that it also appeared in the first definition of a cocktail.Around 1000BC, the Chinese were using ice from cold streams and blocks of snow as a means of preserving food. Around 500 BC, the Egyptians and Indians used rapid evaporation to cool water in clay pots and on straw beds. This combined with the cool temperatures of the night also helped in freezing the water. By 400 BC, the Persians had developed the Yakhchal (ice pit), a dome shaped building about 2 stories high with the same amount of space under ground. The walls of this Ice pit were made of sand, clay, egg whites, lime, goat hair and ash, a combination that was water resistant and also resistant to heat transfer helping create insulation. Around the 5th century BC, the Greeks were enjoying nectar and honey flavored snow. Alexander the great built the first Greek icehouses and loved eating frozen milk and honey along with fruits and wine. The Romans were also not far behind, and enjoyed ice and snow mixed with wine and juices to cool themselves off. Emperor Nero also had snow transported to Rome for these purposes.While empires fell taking away the advancement of these techniques, ruins and texts have helped gather and preserve this knowledge on (of) Ice. The American adopted the European style pits for ice conservation. In the 17th century the Americans used these pits with a hut on top to trap cold air. It was mostly ice from ponds that were cut and stored in late winter. Thomas Moore in 1803 patented his appliance the “refrigerator”, which was nothing but an ice box he made with oval shaped cedar wood which housed a rectangular tin in it. Ice was put in between the wood and the tin box before being covered with cloth and rabbit skin. Thomas used his invention to transport butter, giving it an extended shelf life of about 4-5 days. One of the notable figures in the history of ice was Frederic Tudor, nicknamed the “Ice King of the World”. He was the first man to see the potential in ice as a product and took it to all parts of the US and then to different parts of the world. By 1820, he had devised a brilliant way to use sawdust as insulation on ships, which eventually helped him bring ice to as far away as the Caribbean Islands and Bombay. His vision and perseverance revolutionized the food and drinks industry. People were drinking cold mint juleps in summers, and ice had become the second largest export of the US, after cotton. The journey of mechanical ice production began in 1847 with Dr. John Gorrie, who developed a prototype refrigeration machine to cool his patients suffering from malaria and yellow fever. Despite receiving a patent in 1851, Gorrie’s invention was ridiculed by the ice-shipping industry, leading to his business failure and the shelving of his concept. Progress resumed in 1853 when Alexander Twining patented the first commercial refrigeration system, followed by James Harrison’s high-capacity ice machine, which earned an Australian patent in 1855. In 1873, Andrew Muhl’s ice-making machine in Texas paved the way for the world’s first commercial icemakers, manufactured by Columbus Iron Works. By 1917, the National Association of Ice Industries was formed as mechanically produced ice gained popularity in the food and beverage industry. Innovations continued with Henry Vogt’s 1938 Tube-Ice Machine, which introduced automatic ice production in vertical tubes, and Charlie Lamka’s 1968 invention of volumetric plastic-bag packaging, revolutionizing ice storage and distribution. The industry evolved with organizational rebranding, culminating in the International Packaged Ice Association (IPIA) in 1998, which now represents over 400 global ice producers and promotes the mission that “Ice is a Food.”Ice in Modern Day drinks. “The more the ice the better it is” – Zbigniew Zapert (Zibi) was the first person to tell me these golden words.When it comes to ice, it’s the quality and consistency that matters. And before you even have ice, you have water which has to be neutral, without any flavors or odors. When it comes to ice it is important to see what the application of the ice is. Different types of ice are used for shaking, stirring and for service of a drink. When making a drink, use the same quality of ice, same size and same shape for the same dilution and consistency in your cocktail. To geek out on this, new bartenders are urged to measure the amount of liquid ingredients before you put into the shaker or the stirring glass and then post processing measure it again. One has to know the amount of dilution the ice causes in a drink. For cocktails 20 – 40 % dilution is the key depending on the type of drink and the ABV of all the ingredients involved. It is also a useful piece of information when one is batching

FALLING IN LOVE WITH JAPANESE WINE: FROM BEAUNE TO TOCHIGI Mohona Chowdhrey the_winedian_girl Two years ago, I attended the Salon des Vins Japonais in Beaune, Burgundy, an event that would quietly transform my relationship with wine. As a sommelier living in the heart of French viticulture, surrounded by centuries of winemaking heritage, I didn’t expect a tasting of Japanese wines to move me so deeply. Its subtle aromas of yuzu, white peach, and mineral purity carried a grace I hadn’t experienced before. It wasn’t trying to impress, it whispered instead of shouting. That day marked the beginning of my fascination with Japanese wines which led me on a journey of curiosity, humility, and rediscovery. And for that, I have to thank Genki-san, whose warmth and generosity opened the doors to a world I might never have known. The Origins of Japanese Wine Japan’s winemaking story began in late 19th century, in Yamanashi Prefecture, northwest of Tokyo. Nestled at the base of Mount Fuji, this region became the birthplace of Japanese viticulture. Its landscape of misty mountains, volcanic soils, and cool river valleys offered both beauty and challenge in equal measure. Missionaries and traders introduced European grape varieties, but the country’s humid climate and abundant rainfall made grape growing a formidable challenge.Instead of emulating European styles, Japanese winemakers began adapting, choosing grapes and techniques suited to their unique environment. The result was a new, distinctly Japanese expression of wine: delicate, balanced, and harmonious. Two grapes have since come to define Japan’s identity in the global wine world Koshu and Muscat Bailey A. Koshu: The Spirit of Subtlety For centuries, Koshu was consumed as a table grape, until producers in Yamanashi began realizing its potential for fine and sparkling wine. Today, it yields wines of exceptional finesse that are dry, lightly aromatic, and profoundly mineral. Its citrus, pear, and yuzu notes are lifted by a salinity that feels almost maritime, a natural companion to Japanese cuisine. Muscat Bailey A: Japan’s Red Identity Created in the 1920s by Zenbei Kawakami in Niigata, it’s a hybrid of Muscat of Hamburg and Bailey, bred specifically to thrive in Japan’s humid conditions.Muscat Bailey A produces light to medium bodied reds, typically showing red cherry, strawberry, and gentle spice. When vinified thoughtfully, often with partial carbonic maceration or careful oak aging it can achieve an elegance reminiscent of Pinot Noir and Gamay, yet with its own expressive charm.A Different Kind of Vineyard One of the first things that struck me while exploring Japanese vineyards was how visually different, they are from European ones. Instead of the vertical shoot positioning (VSP) typical in France or Italy, many Japanese vineyards use the pergola system , where vines are trained to grow horizontally overhead, forming a leafy canopy. This isn’t just an aesthetic choice but it’s survival. The pergola structure protects grapes from heavy rainfall, improves air circulation, and helps prevent rot in Japan’s humid summers. It’s a practical, almost poetic response to nature’s temperament. Then there’s a uniquely Japanese touch that you’d never see in Burgundy or Bordeaux: tiny paper umbrellas placed delicately over each grape bunch. These small “kasa” (umbrellas) shield the grapes from direct rain and sun, preventing water from diluting the juice and protecting the delicate skins from splitting. Walking through such vineyards feels like entering a living work of art that every bunch individually cared for, every detail considered. Where Europe trains vines to seek sunlight, Japan trains them to live in harmony with rain. My Visit to Tochigi: Lessons in Resilience During my most recent trip to Japan, I visited Tochigi Prefecture, a lesser known but fast emerging wine region. The weather there was unpredictable, heavy rains one day, humid warmth the next. I walked through vineyards glistening from overnight showers, where workers meticulously adjusted the pergola canopies to let in just enough airflow to dry the grapes.It was in these quiet, rain drenched vineyards that I saw the heart of Japanese viticulture, patience and respect. Winemakers here don’t fight nature; they adapt to it. patience and respect. Winemakers here don’t fight nature; they adapt to it. They work with precision, monitoring every vine and every bunch, ensuring the balance is never lost. Despite the climatic challenges, the wines I tasted in Tochigi were beautifully refined, crisp Koshu with a touch of salinity, and elegant Muscat Bailey A produced by Genki san himself which was the perfect fruitiness required after a long da y of winery visits. It was a vivid reminder that great wine is born from perseverance, not perfection. A New Definition of Elegance My journey into Japanese wine has redefined what I consider “great wine.” It’s not about concentration, oak, or opulence. It’s about emotion. Japanese wines capture the essence of restraint that they invite you to listen closely, to appreciate nuance and purity over power.As someone trained in the French tradition, discovering Japanese wine felt like learning a new dialect of a familiar language, one that speaks through silence, precision, and grace.