FROM COUNTRY LIQUOR TO CULTURAL ICON: OZZO FENI BECOMES INDIA’S FIRST GI-CERTIFIED SPIRIT BY NEELU CHANDNI

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FROM COUNTRY LIQUOR TO CULTURAL ICON: OZZO FENI BECOMES INDIA’S FIRST GI-CERTIFIED SPIRIT

Neelu Chandni

Guest Writer

Goa’s beloved Feni just made history! Ozzo Feni from Nanora is now India’s first-ever Geographical Indication (GI) tagged spirit, protecting its unique preparation and enhancing its marketability. Crafted by Goa Heritage Distillery in Nanora village, Ozzo Feni is India’s first-ever cashew feni to receive a GI tag. This milestone not only celebrates the rich heritage of Goa’s traditional spirit but also paves the way for global recognition, as the GI policy now tasks the Tourism Department with promoting feni nationally and internationally.
What is a GI Tag?
A Geographical Indication (GI) tag, also known as a GI tag, is a certification given to products that have a specific geographical origin and possess unique qualities, reputation, or characteristics linked to that location. It ensures that only products produced in the defined region using traditional methods or unique local resources can use the GI mark.
GI tags are a form of intellectual property right that protects the reputation and origin of a product. They prevent unauthorized use of a product’s name, ensuring authenticity and quality. GI tags can boost local economies by promoting local craftsmanship, preserving cultural heritage, and increasing the value of products.
In India, GI tags are issued by the Geographical Indication Registry under the Department of Industry Promotion and Internal Trade. In essence, GI tags are a valuable tool for protecting intellectual property, promoting regional identity, and fostering economic development.
Receiving the GI tag means that feni is now recognised globally and placed at a status comparable to Scotch in Scotland or Champagne in France.
What is Feni?
Feni is a traditional Indian spirit made from the fermentation and double distillation of either cashew apples or coconut sap. It’s a strong, clear liquor with a unique flavour profile and a history spanning centuries.
The cashew tree was introduced to Goa by Portuguese missionaries in the 1600s, along with the fruit known as the cashew apple. They also brought with them the practice of distilling its juice into feni, a tradition that gradually took root among the local communities. Over time, feni-making evolved into a small scale, homegrown industry. The artisans, known as bhatikars, originally used earthen pots called bhatis to fire the spirit. In modern times, this process has transitioned to copper vessels using condenser coil. “Back then, the juice was crushed using bare feet,” says Bhakta. “Now, it’s all modernized and technologically advanced.” The juice undergoes natural fermentation for 72 hours before distillation. The first distillate is called urak, and when this is distilled again; along with a bit of fresh juice, it becomes feni. This spirit is bottled at its original distillation strength, with an alcohol content ranging from 40% to 43% ABV (alcohol by volume), meaning it isn’t diluted before bottling.
The brand, which makes it strictly adheres to all the regulations of GI certification, sources the cashew apples from Goa, and all utensils used are stainless steel, copper or glass. The condensation of feni takes place in earthen mud clays called launi.
Ozzo Feni
Nestled in Nanora village, 35 kilometres north of Panaji, Goa Heritage Distillery is the producer of Ozzo Feni. Second-generation owner of the distillery and founding member of Goa Cashew Feni Distillers and Bottlers Association (GCFDBA), Gurudatta Bhakta, reveals, “It is a proud moment for us, and the state of Goa. The Government of India has made a GI policy that puts the onus on the Department of Tourism to promote the produce nationally and internationally. This is the beginning of feni’s journey on the global map,” he believes.
Ozzo Feni has been made following stringent regulations of GI certification — the cashew apples are sourced from Goa and all utensils used are stainless steel, copper or glass. The condensation of feni takes place in earthen mud clays called launi.
“The recent launch of Ozzo Feni by Cazcar marks a pivotal moment in feni’s history. As Goa’s first GI-tagged cashew feni, it also becomes India’s inaugural GI-certified alcohol brand. This designation elevates GI Feni to a status comparable to Scotch in Scotland or Champagne in France, positioning it as India’s first officially recognised geographical indication alcoholic beverage,” reasons Hanzel Vaz, GCFDBA secretary.
The Feni Distillers and Bottlers Association was formed in 2007. “The State Government, under the wing of Science and Technology, decided that feni is a heritage spirit of Goa; it was previously regarded as country liquor. Cashew apples are grown in many parts of India, but feni is made only in Goa,” informs Bhakta, who is the founding member of the association. He signs off with an anecdote: “Mothers in Goa would give their children some feni to carry when they moved to colder regions of the world. They advised them to consume two spoons if it got too cold. There is a related quote as well in Konkani: ‘Goencho soro jeevak boro’, which translates to: Goan feni is good for health.”