FROM KICK TO CRAFT – THE CURIOUS CASE OF INDIAN BEER BY AJAY JHA

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Ajay Jha

A senior Delhi-based independent journalist

India’s relationship with beer stretches back further than most people realise. Long before the British introduced European-style brews in the 18th century, indigenous communities across the subcontinent were fermenting grains like rice and millet to create beer-like beverages. These traditional drinks, known as sura, handia, and apong, were deeply embedded in rituals and social customs, especially in tribal regions of the Northeast and Central India.
The formal beer industry began in 1830 when Edward Dyer established India’s first brewery at Kasauli in Himachal Pradesh. It produced Lion beer, which holds the distinction of being Asia’s oldest beer brand. The industry expanded under colonial influence, with breweries opening across India.
In modern times, strong beer has emerged as the undisputed favourite among Indian consumers. With alcohol content typically ranging from 5 to 8 percent, it accounts for more than 85 percent of all beer sold. Strong beer offers better value for money, delivering a stronger buzz at a lower cost. Major breweries have capitalised on this.
Before strong beer became mainstream, some drinkers would mix regular beer with whisky to enhance its potency. This was a popular workaround for those seeking a kick without spending too much.
The Indian beer palate is changing fast. Urban consumers, especially younger generations, are exploring styles like lager, wheat beer, stout, ale, and India Pale Ale.
One persistent myth is that darker beer is stronger. In reality, colour has little to do with alcohol content. A stout may look intense, but could have a lower ABV than a pale lager. As consumers become more informed, such misconceptions are fading, paving the way for a more nuanced appreciation of beer.
The Rise of Craft and the Changing Market
India’s beer mThe Rise of Craft and the Changing Market India’s beer market has transformed dramatically in the past decade. Once dominated by a few legacy brands, it now includes domestic giants, international players, and a growing tribe of craft arket has transformed dramatically in the past decade. Once dominated by a few legacy brands, it now includes domestic giants, international players, and a growing tribe of craft brewers. The market is valued at over ₹40,000 crore, with annual consumption crossing 300 million cases.
While domestic beer still holds the lion’s share, imported beer is gaining ground.
Global brands like Budweiser, Heineken, and Corona are now brewed locally through joint ventures and licensing agreements. This reduces costs and makes premium beer more accessible.
The explosion of microbreweries across the country has added to the excitement. Several states have relaxed licensing norms, encouraging entrepreneurs to set up brewpubs and taprooms. These establishments offer freshly brewed beer with distinct flavour profiles. Young consumers are drawn to the authenticity and variety that craft beer provides.
Beer Beyond the Bottle
One of the most striking changes in India’s beer culture is how it has broken free from old social and seasonal constraints. Not long ago, beer was seen as a casual summer drink. Come winter, it would quietly retreat, replaced by whisky and rum. That perception is fading.
Socially, beer has become more inclusive. It is no longer confined to college parties or roadside bars. Professionals sip it at networking events, couples enjoy it on date nights, and families might share a pint at brunch. The stigma once attached to beer drinking, especially for women, is gradually eroding.
Beer was not always popular in India. As more Indians started travelling, working in global companies, or studying abroad, they were exposed to different drinking habits.
Slowly, beer started showing up at parties, restaurants, and weekend hangouts. It was lighter, easier to drink and did not carry the same social baggage as hard liquor.
The arrival of microbreweries in cities like Bengaluru, Pune, and Gurugram saw the rise of places that brewed their own beer. These places offered new flavours like wheat beer, fruity ales, and strong stouts. They became places to hang out, listen to music, and try something new.
Women played a big role in this shift. As public spaces became more open and inclusive, more women started drinking socially. Beer, seen as less intimidating than hard liquor, became a popular choice.
A New Era Brewing
India’s beer story is no longer just about the kick. It has become craft, culture, and choice. From ancient tribal brews to modern microbreweries, the journey now reflects a broader shift in how Indians engage with taste, identity, and social experience. As consumers grow more discerning and inclusive spaces continue to flourish, beer is shedding its old stereotypes and emerging as a symbol of urban sophistication and creative expression.
The road ahead is both promising and complex. Regulatory hurdles and market pressures remain, but so does the spirit of innovation. Whether it is a crisp lager on a rooftop in Mumbai, a smoky stout in a Bengaluru taproom, or a millet-based brew reviving indigenous traditions, Indian beer is evolving into something far richer than a beverage.
And as more Indians raise their glasses, not just to drink but to discover, this curious case of Indian beer is turning into a celebration of possibility. Cheers to that.